Thursday, 11 September 2014
Look out for the new issue of View2 Magazine.
It features my latest SS15 Denim trends report, FW14/15 Amsterdam Street Style and also a SS15 Trade Show report of what's 'cool and happening' for the new Spring Summer season.
This is View2, the Denim Most Wanted report!
It's finally here - the highlight of the new denim fashion season, with the views and styles of the denim opinion leaders across Europe.
I really enjoyed making this trend report. It was quite frantic and often quite 'full on', but I had the fortune to meet a lot of very cool people, who were really, and I mean really, passionate about their denim!
We talked about true blue, heavily slashed, re-patched, unwashed, back to basics shapes, low crotch and 'anti fashion' loose cuts.
We heard a few "for your ears only" the secrets of 'Thai farmers and authentic wash wearing', sorry can't say more.....
We looked for details in new shaped pockets, hand sewn details and an individual statements.
We looked back to some original truly innovative 'Type 1", oversized pockets.
(It is amazing that in such a short time (2006 until now) we could already highlight key styles, such as the Levi's Type 1, as already being market changers.)
But the true highlight and the most inspiring element of this denim season was seen in the attitude of the "New Generation" of designers, who all wanted to do things their way.
Fair prices, simple cuts, excellent materials and well chosen trimmings.
This is where premium and authenticity have found their meaning.
Excellent quality, high end materials and a sense of hand finished attention
Some tried to look as if they didn't care, some acted as though not washing your jeans for a year and sometimes more didn't matter to them.... yeah right!
This is the crop of the best new styles and new trends in denim.
If you want to see the full 16 page article, you know what you need to do!
View2 is only available in specialist International fashion bookstores, so be prepared to hunt a little.
A big thanks to everyone who took part, and see you in the next season.
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Clean washes, keep a deep and unwashed Blue tint.
The modern touch from G-Star at the Kingpins show, Amsterdam.
'The Denim Blue Madness' continues with a 'zoom-in' on the cool style statements on show in Barcelona, at Denim By Premiere Vision.
Authenticity, new technologies and eco-social awareness were some of the stand out statements this season at the premiere denim fair. There was a strong return to a traditional indigo blue message, with various authentic treatments. But one of the innovations which caught my eye,was that of Denim Knit.
Authenticity is one of the keys to the right denim wash. With premium denim often connected to high quality, high priced selvage Japanese denim, there have been some advantages to going deeper into the research chambers to find that perfect wash.
Too many whiskers or creases and it will look artificial, too few and it will look flat. The path to the right washed look is littered with trials, tests and challenges.
As personal vintage archives grow, in order to be able to replicate authentic looking details, it is the work of the new generation to create their own statement.
"Our own skills, our own ideas, all done in our own way".
Did you ever wonder what happened if you wore your new, raw denim jeans, almost every day for more than a year?
Well, these young creatives tested it.
......... and these are the results.....
Diogo Aguiar with his own collection - called Those Who Wander are Lost.
King Yu Yui - with his Lee 101 - 14 Months without washing. -
Only hanging out to 'air' naturally - (Honestly!)
Stacey Denzel Janmaat - with his own collection 'Dempsey Denim'.
This has a unique left side Coin Pocket.
The famous left hand 'Coin Pocket.'
- Because he is left handed ...... of course!
Thanks to everyone who took part. Enjoy. SRx
Friday, 20 June 2014
The mission, to launch the Denim directions for Fall / Winter 2015 or add confirmations to the bookings for Early Spring '15 and even top up on cool ideas for short term orders for Fall / Winter 2014.
It was a 'Hot bed' of new inspiration and new energies in Denim.
The newest innovations, the experiments of the last 10 months, if not, in some cases the developments of the last 12 years, have now come to light in what looks like a mentality change in the denim market...
The newest innovations are clearly focused on how to "Clean up your denim act!"
The people, the denim and the new Generation of Blue Mentalities.
Act ECO - one of the most inspiring new innovations, is focused on ECO. Highlighting how to wash with less water. In some cases, it is now possible to do a complete wash process, using only 1 cup of water per jean!
How? Through 'Nano vapour particles' and steam!
New WATER - LESS dying processes are now possible through fibre dying, before the fabric is actually woven, it is injected with dye, this way using less water and actually keeping a stronger colour longer!
ICE BLASTING now replaces 'Sand blasting'. A traditional process which required a huge amount of water in the finishing process. Now with ice blasting, water is frozen to below -70 degrees and then using high powered CO2 gas, it's blasted back on the jeans to create textures and original features. The next phase is to re-capture the manufacturers output of CO2 and to close the chain using their own, internally produced CO2 to create the new gas to blast the ice through. The design details achieved can replicate the original vintage details with 100% accuracy.
A New GENERATION is going it alone. Some of the most determined and talented new designers I've met in a long time, are taking on the big industry names and creating their own collections and products, with concepts that are not only creative but personally inspiring and individual.
Based on concepts around a perfect fit, a family heritage or just simply the right product at a new 'True price.' They aim to use their concepts, to reach a consumer market, who appreciate their energy and commitment.
They have an 'Honest design approach' which is fresh, and contagious. This is their power to communicate their passion and their ambitions. The restrictions of the 'Mass market' are not allowing them to express this passion. So..... with a little help from their friends..... they begin to share their knowledge and collaborate together on a new kind of denim and design partnership.
The ingredients are simple, a friend who is great at 'this' and has experience with washing, a boyfriend of another friend who has a 'vintage store' in the city, with a great collection of original pieces. Finally the designer, themselves, who have the inspiration for something unique, in their own way.
This was truly a 'Carnival' of new expression, in all things Denim.
This was the launch of the BRAND NEW BLUE.
Look out for the full report, 'out' in September 2014, in View 2 Magazine.
To all the people I met in Barcelona, thanks for taking part. Be part of the vision!